Tial MVS MVR Design Diagram

This is the NEW Tial MVS 38mm with a 38mm Vband Flange Inlet and a Vband Flange Outlet. The kit comes with both the inlet flange and outlet flange AND both clamps. It also includes all air fittings, block off fittings, banjo bolts and everything else required to install.

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HKS vs GT naming conventions

The HKS and GT turbos are similar , the HKS turbos are actually manufactured by Garrett. They utilize similar parts except for the compressor cover and turbine housings. Below are your cross reference compiled by Tong Turbo.

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GT30 & GT35 T4 Divided 1.06 A/R .ar housing

There are lot of turbocharging freaks looking out for a T4 Divided housing for the GT30 and GT35. There is an anwsers, previously ATP brought out a housing sized 1.06 .ar , but reviews were bad and the design of the divided flange was not the conventional T4 flange. Cracks was also one of the issues of this housing. ATP has redesigned the turbine housing and have launched out their new product.

Previous lower quality housing below

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GT Ballbearing vs EFR Ballbearing catridge

A review comparing EFR and GT ballbearing surfaced up the internet sometime ago showing the picture below claiming the EFR to have a bigger ballbearing cage. The truth is both the GT and the EFR has bigger cages but they start at a diffrent turbocharger frame. The border catridge is actually a GTX3582 which oftenly is compared to a EFR8374 and also the GTX3076 with the EFR7670.

The GT/GTX series is divided to 3 frames while the EFR series is divided to only 2 frames.
GT25/28 Frame1, GT30/35 Frame2 , GT37,40,42 Frame3.
While in the EFR series , all EFR up to EFR6758 shares one frame while anything above it shares a bigger catridge. In comparison the EFR7670 sits in a bigger frame while GTX3076 sits in its seconds frame thus EFR having a bigger cage but also a beefier shaft which also means heavier. No doubt the GT series are proven till at high boost capabilities till today despite it counterparts differences. GT30/35 based turbos are one of the most used turbocharger in the Motorsport industry where some with billet wheels surpass the 800hp range.

EFR big cage vs GT small cage

GT small cage vs GT big cage

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Garrett GTX vs GT 3076

Below are some results of GT3076 vs GTX3076, how technology of the new blade by Garrett make difference in power and response. The new GTX is a all new billet wheel which was carved to perfection on a C&C machine.

Source : http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/387381-garrett-gtx3076-turbo-pics.html

Source : http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=497486

Hi all... i have conducted a TRUE comparison between the two turbos thanks to Sonic Performance and Garage 7. By true comparison i mean the only thing changed was the turbo. nothing else was touched. The result was suprising and disappointing both at the same time. We found that the GTX version DID spool quicker and hence started making torque and power earlier in the midrange. i now have FULL boost around the 3500 rpm mark which for a turbo like that is impressive. Its highly streetable! 

The downside is that for the same boost level peak power is changed by .1 of a kw! its pretty much lineball! the two turbos match each other on the graph pretty much spot on.
runs were done with air temp probe and same correction mode and dyno that STatus uses for real world comparison. 

Solid pink line is GTX, thin red line is GT. 

See how much faster the GTX builds boost

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VR4 AMG Intake Manifold 4G63

Comparison of the super Rare VR4 AMG tuned engine intake manifold vs the cyclone intake and the 1G / 4g67 intake manifold. The AMG is superior in size and flow. The AMG engine was built natural aspirated but it whopped nearly 200hp on a 2Liter 4G63.

Source : http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB3&Number=802855&page=5&fpart=1

Cyclone vs AMG

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Evo vs Vr4 head , DSM 1g vs 2g head

There are much confusion between the 1G vs 2G DSM head. The 1G head is similar to the VR4 Head while the 2G head is similar to the Evo 1,2,3. There is another head stamped 1.8L which is similar to the VR4 but instead of 47cc , it is a 43cc combustion chamber.

Below is 2G vs Evo III Intake manifold

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Volumetric Efficiency 101

Volumetric Efficiency 101
by Brian Barnhill
Source : http://tunertools.com/articles/volumetric-efficiency.asp

This can actually be a quite tricky subject, mostly due to confusion and differing opinions among many people. Volumetric efficiency (VE) is typically defined as "the actual amount of air being pumped by the engine as compared to its theoretical maximum."
Basically, VE is a measure of how "full" the cylinders are.

As most of us will know from basic science, gas will expand to fill its container. Seemingly, that would suggest that the cylinder is always full. And, in the pure volumetric sense, that is correct. A 0.5 Liter cylinder will always have 0.5 liters of air in it. The measure we are looking for here is air density. A cylinder with 500 mols/liter of air in it is said to me "more full" than one with 400 mols/liter.
Now, where is this air density measured?

This is one of the points of disagreement. The point at which air density is measured is crucial. Many will claim that you must take the measurement at a standard, such atmospheric density. This, however, can cause many issues with VE measurements. Forced induction cars will have skewed VE values due to the simple fact that they are forcing more air into the manifold. With more air available to the engine, it will receive a larger/more dense amount. This is not a pure measurement of the efficiency of the engine,

To correct for these factors, air density available at the intake manifold should be used. This will correctly measure the VE based on the amount of air available to the engine. As a simple example: Take a 4 cylinder, 2.0 Liter engine (assume even flow to each cylinder) each cylinder will be 0.5 liters. If the intake manifold has a density of 100 mols/liter (this gives 25 mols/cyl), at 100% VE, the cylinder will have 25 mols/Liter. This comes from the equation:
VE = Densitycylinder/Densitymanifold * 100%

Lets look at this another way. Say the cylinder in a single cylinder engine has 186 mols/Liter. Now, the density of at the manifold is measured at 213 mols/Liter. The calculation of VE gives: VE = 286/213 * 100% or 87.32%
It is upon this principle that variable valve timing and similar technologies rely.

They will change the flow aspects of the engine to best match the particular RPM range. An engine is typically only maximized for a particular rpm range. By allowing the change in parameters, this can be overcome. This can easily be seen when looking at DYNO charts for any Vtec equipped engine (the S2000 is a good example). In these charts there will be a "double peak." The horsepower will begin to fall off at one point, and then climb again. This rpm point will correspond to the "Vtec" point.

Volumetric Efficiency plays a large role in how your engine operates. By understanding this parameter one can begin to grasp the details required to properly tune any engine.

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4G63 Camshaft Specifications

	CAM	ADV Duration	Duration @ 1mm	Peak Lift (mm)	Centerline
Intake	OEM EVO	248	200	9.8
Exhaust	OEM EVO	248	200	9.32
lIntake	Brian Crower	272	206	10.54
Exhaust	Brian Crower	272	206	9.86
Intake	Brian Crower	276	216	11.07
Exhaust	Brian Crower	276	216	11.07
Intake	Brian Crower	280	213	10.3
Exhaust	Brian Crower	280	216	10.36
Intake	Brian Crower	288	222	11.83
Exhaust	Brian Crower	288	220	12.14
Intake	Buddy Club Spec 1	264		10.8	108
lExhaust	Buddy Club Spec 1	272		10.2	107
Intake	Buddy Club Spec 2	272		10.8	108
Exhaust	Buddy Club Spec 2	264		10.2	107
Intake	Eitidd‘. Club Spec 3	280		10.3	116
Exhaust	Buddy Club Spec 3	230		10.2	116
Intake	Buddy Club Spec 4	290		11.5	110
Exhaust	Buddy Club Spec 4	290		11.5	110
Intake	Comp 264	248		10.3	104
Exhaust	Comp 264	248		10.2	112
Intake	Comp 272	256		10.8	104
Exhaust	Comp 272	257		10.2	112
Intake	Comp 280	264		11	104
Exhaust	Comp 280	265		10.4	112
Intake	Cosworth M2	272		11
Exhaust	Cosworth M2	272		11
Intake	Costworth M3	280		11.6
Exhaust	Costworth M3	272		11
Intake	FP 4R	267	221	11.1	108
Exhaust	FP 4R	275	228	10.9	113
Intake	FP 5R	279	233	12.1	110
Exhaust	FP 5R	285	238	11.8	114
Intake	GSC S1	268	216	11	107
Exhaust	GSC S1	268	220	10.5	113
Intake	GSC S2	274	230	11.2	107
Exhaust	GSC S2	274	230	11	113
Intake	GSC S3	280	238	11.7	109
Exhaust	GSC S3	280	235	11.7	115
Intake	Greddy	260		10.8	110
Exhaust	Greddy	260		10.3	112
Intake	HKS Step 1	264		10.8	110
Exhaust	HKS Step 1	264		10.2	110
Intake	HKS Step 1	272		10.8	110
Exhaust	HKS Step 1	272		10.2	110
Intake	HKS Step 1	280		10.8	110
Exhaust	HKS Step 1	280		10.2	110
Intake	HKS Step 2	274		11
Exhaust	HKS Step 2	278		11
Intake	JUN 264	264		10.5	110
Exhaust	JUN 264	264		10.5	115
Intake	JUN 272	272	235	10.8	110
Exhaust	JUN 272	272	235	10.8	115
Intake	Kelford TX258	258	208	10.5	107
Exhaust	Kelford TX258	264	220	10.5	111
Intake	Kelford TX264	264	216	11	107
Exhaust	KeIford TX264	260	216	10.35	113
Intake	kelford TX272	272	226	11	107
Exhaust	Kelford TX272	272	226	11	113
Intake	Kelford TX280	280	233	113	107
Exhaust	Kelford TX280	276	230	11	115
Intake	Kelford TX288	288	242	12	105
Exhaust	Kelford TX288	280	238	11.5	117
Intake	Kelford TX276HL	276	234	123	106
Exhaust	Kelford TX276HL	272	230	12	115
Intake	Kelford TX284HL	284	242	12.5	106
Exhaust	Kelford TX284HL	280	238	12	116
Intake	kelford TX294HL	294	250	12.5	106
Exhaust	Kelford TX294HL	292	244	12	117
Intake	Piper Drag Race	290		11.99	106
Exhaust	Piper Drag Race	290		11.99	106
Intake	Piper Race	274		11.99	106
Exhaust	Piper Race	274		11.99	106
Intake	Piper Race	274		11.51	106
Exhaust	Piper Race	274		11.51	106
Intake	Piper Race	270		11.51	106
Exhaust	Piper Race	270		11.51	106
Intake	Piper Fast Road	272		10.8	108
Exhaust	Piper Fast Road	256		10.16	107
Intake	Piper Fast Road	264		11	108
Exhaust	Piper Fast Road	260		10.1	107
Intake	Piper Ultimate Road	265		11.51	108
Exhaust	Piper Ultimate Road	265		10.8	107
Intake	Piper Rally	265		11.51	108
Exhaust	Piper Rally	265		11.51	107
Intake	Piper Group A	265		11.51	106
Exhaust	Piper Group A	267		9.61	108
Intake	Revolver	262	222	11.4	109
Exhaust	Revolver	264	223	11.5	111
Intake	Skunk2 Tuner Series	264		10.8
Exhaust	Skunk2 Tuner Series	272		10.2
Intake	Tomei PON	260		10.7
Exhaust	Tomei PON	260		10.2
Intake	Tomei PON Type R	270		10.7
Exhaust	Tomei PON Type R.	270		10.2
Intake	Tomei PRO	270		11.5	110
Exhaust	Tomei PRO	270		11.5	115
Intake	Tomei PRO Solid	230		11.5
Exhaust	Tomei PRO Solid	230		11.5
Intake	Tomei Pro Solid	290		11.5
Exhaust	Tomei Pro Solid	290		11.5

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Forged Pistons , Ring end gap & Piston clearance by Arias

Minimum Ring End Gaps And Clearance

Ring	Application	Minimum End Gap Per Inch Of Bore
Premium Top Rings	Blown Fuel, Alky, Gas	0.008
	Injected Fuel	0.007
	Blown Fuel, Alky, Gas	0.0075
	Blown Gas, Street	0.0065
	Nitrous Less 250hp	0.0065
	Heavy Nitrous 250hp+	0.0075
	Na Alky, Gas	0.0055
	N.a Gas, Street	0.005
Cast Iron Second Rings	Blown Fuel, Alky, Gas	0.006
	Na Alky, Fuel	0.005
	Na Gas	0.004
Third Groove Oil Control Rings	Upper And Lower Rails	.015"  min.

Recommended Piston Clearances

Minimum Piston To Valve	Normally Aspirated	Int. 090"   Exh. .110"
	Blown	Int. .125"  Exh. .175"
Minimum Piston To Head	Steel Rods	.040"-.050"

Source : http://ariaspistons.com/technical.asp

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Mitsubishi Spark Plug list

MITSUBISHI

Model	Engine	Eng. size	Dates of release	Plug type	V-line	Gap
3000 GT	6G7	3.0	97-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
3000 GT	6G72 MPI TC	3.0	95-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
3000 GT	6G72/T DOHC	3.0	09.92-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Carisma	4G92 SOHC	1.6	97-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Carisma	4G93 SOHC	1.8	97-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Carisma GDI	4G93 GDI	1.8	09.97-	PZFR6B	-	0,8
Carisma 1600 DAO	4G92	1.6	09.95-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Carisma 1800 DAO	4G93	1.8	09.95-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Carisma 1800 DAO	4G93	1.8	09.95-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Champ 1300	4G13	1.3	94-	BP5ES	8	0,8
Champ 1500	4G15	1.5	94-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Colt	4G13	1.3	03.96-	BUR6EA-11	-	1,1
Colt	4G92	1.6	03.96-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Colt 1200	4G11	1.2	- 84	BPR5ES	6	0,8
Colt 1200 C10	4G16	1.2	85- 88	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Colt 1300	4G1	1.3	97-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Colt 1300	4G13	1.3	95-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Colt 1300	4G13	1.3	89-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Colt 1300	4G13	1.3	03.96-	BUR6EA-11	-	1,1
Colt 1300	4G13 / MPI	1.3	92-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Colt 1300	4G13 / MPI Cat.	1.3	93- 94	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Colt 1400		1.4	- 87	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Colt 1500	4G15	1.5	94-	BP5ES	8	0,8
Colt 1500	4G15	1.5		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Colt 1500	4G15 Cat.	1.5		BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Colt 1600	4G9 MVV	1.6	97-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Colt 1600	4G9(not MVV Magermix)	1.6	97-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Colt 1600	4G92	1.6	03.96-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Colt 1600	4G92	1.6	92- 93	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Colt 1600	4G92 MPI	1.6	94- 95	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Colt 1600	4G92 MPI MVV	1.6	95- 96	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Colt 1600		1.6		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Colt 1600 16V	4G92	1.6	12.91-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Colt 1600 Turbo		1.6	86- 88	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Colt 1600 Turbo		1.6	(85)	BPR7ES	19	0,8
Colt 1800	4G67	1.8		BPR7ES	19	0,8
Colt 1800	4G67 Cat.	1.8		BPR7ES	19	0,8
Colt 1800 GTI 16V	4G93 MPI	1.8	94-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Cordia	4G32	1.6	-84/86-	BPR5ES	6	0,8
Cordia	4G32	1.6	(85)	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Cordia Turbo	4G32	1.6	- 84	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Cordia Turbo	4G62 / G62B	1.8	85-	BR7ES	-	0,8
Diamante 3000	6G72 MPI DOHC	3.0	94-	BK6E	-	0,8
Diamante 3000	6G72 MPI SOHC	3.0	94-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Eclipse	4G6	2.0	97-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Eclipse 2009	4G63 MPI DOHC	2.0	91-10.95	BPR7ES	19	0,8
Eclipse 2009 D30	4G63	2.0	11.95-	BUR7EA-11	-	1,1
Expo 1800 LRV	4G93 MPI	1.8	94-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Expo 2400 / LRV	4G64 MPI SOHC	2.4	94-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Galant	4G6	2.0	97-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Galant V6	6A13	2.5	97-	PFR6G-11	-	1,1
Galant V6 24V	6G73 MPI	2.5	95-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Galant 1200		1.2	- 84	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Galant 1400		1.4	- 84	BPR5ES	6	0,8
Galant 1600	4G32	1.6		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Galant 1800	4G37	1.8		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Galant 1800	4G37 Cat.	1.8	- 91	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Galant 1800	4G37 Cat.	1.8	92-	BPR7ES-11	-	1,1
Galant 1800	4G93	1.8	94-	BK6E	-	0,8
Galant 1800	4G93 MPI	1.8	94-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Galant 2009	Cat.	2.0	92-	BPR7ES-11	-	1,1
Galant 2009	4G63	2.0	93-	BK6E	-	0,8
Galant 2009	4G63	2.0	96-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Galant 2009	4G63	2.0		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Galant 2009	4G63	2.0	92-	BPR7ES-11	-	1,1
Galant 2009	4G63 Cat.	2.0		BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Galant 2009	4G63 MPI	2.0	94-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Galant 2009	4G63D	2.0	92-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Galant 2009 V6	6A12 MPI 24V	2.0	93-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Galant 2400	4G64 MPI DOHC	2.4	94-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Galant 2400	4G64 MPI SOHC	2.4	94-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Galant 2500 V6	24V	2.5	93-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Galant Dynamic	4G63	2.0	91-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
L200	4G32	1.6	92-	BPR5ES	6	0,8
L200	4G32 Cat.	1.6		BPR6ES	2	0,8
L200	4G54	2.6	- 92	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
L200	4G54/B	2.6	93-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
L200	4G63	2.0	92-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
L200	4G63	2.0	- 92	BPR7ES	19	0,8
L200	4G64 MPI	2.4	94-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
L200	G54B	2.6	95-	BUR6EA-11	-	1,1
L300	4G32	1.6		BPR5ES	6	0,8
L300	4G33	1.4	94-	BP6ES	4	0,8
L300	4G63	2.0		BPR5ES	6	0,8
L300	4G63	2.0	92-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
L300	4G63 Cat.	2.0	92-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
L300	4G63 FBC	2.0	95-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
L300	4G63 MPI	2.0	95-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
L300	4G64 Cat.	2.4	92-	PGR6A-11	-	1,1
L400	4G63 MPI	2.0	95-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
L400	4G64 MPI	2.4	95-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1200	4G11	1.2	- 84	BPR5ES	6	0,8
Lancer 1200	4G16	1.2	85-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Lancer 1300	4G1	1.3	97-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1300	4G13	1.3	10.92-	BP5ES	8	0,8
Lancer 1300	4G13	1.3	89- 92	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Lancer 1300	4G13	1.3	03.96-	BUR6EA-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1300	4G13	1.3	03.96-	BUR6EA-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1300	4G13 Cat.	1.3	-09.92	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Lancer 1300	4G13 MPI	1.3	10.92-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1400	4G12	1.4	- 84	BPR5ES	6	0,8
Lancer 1500	4G15	1.5	93-	BP5ES	8	0,8
Lancer 1500	4G15	1.5	85- 92	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Lancer 1500	4G15 Cat.	1.5	86- 92	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Lancer 1500	4G91 MPI	1.5	94-	BK6E-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1600	4G61 DOHC	1.6	90-09.92	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Lancer 1600	4G9 MVV	1.6	97-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1600	4G9(not MVV Magermix)	1.6	97-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Lancer 1600	4G92 MPI	1.6	10.92-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Lancer 1600	4G92 MVV	1.6	94-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Lancer 1600		1.6	- 84	BPR5ES	6	0,8
Lancer 1600 Turbo	4G32T	1.6	86- 88	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Lancer 1600 Turbo	4G32T	1.6	(85)	BPR7ES	19	0,8
Lancer 1600 Twin Carb.		1.6		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Lancer 1800	4G37 Cat.	1.8		BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Lancer 1800	4G67	1.8		BPR7ES	19	0,8
Lancer 1800 16V	4G93 MPI	1.8	93-	BK6E	-	0,8
Mirage	4G15 MPI	1.5	94-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Mirage	4G93 MPI	1.8	94-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Montero V6 3000	6G72	3.0	91-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Pajero	4G64	2.4	97-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Pajero	6G72 12Ventiler	3.0	97-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Pajero	6G72 24Ventiler	3.0	97-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Pajero	6G74	3.5	97-	PFR5J-11	-	1,1
Pajero 2400	4G64	2.4	03.91-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Pajero 2600	4G54	2.6		BPR5ES	6	0,8
Pajero 2600	4G54 Cat.	2.6		BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Pajero 2600		2.6	92-	BP6ES-11	-	1,1
Pajero 3000 V6	6G72	3.0	89-	BPR5ES-11	-	1,1
Pajero 3500 V6	6G74 DOHC	3.5	04.94-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Sapporo 1200		1.2		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Sapporo 1400		1.4		BPR5ES	6	0,8
Sapporo 1600		1.6		BPR5ES	6	0,8
Sapporo 1600 Twin Carb.		1.6		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Sapporo 2009		2.0		BPR6ES	2	0,8
Sapporo 2400	4G64	2.4		BPR7ES-11	-	1,1
Sapporo GSR		2.0	03.81-11.84	BPR7ES	19	0,8
Sapporo Turbo		2.0	03.81-11.84	BR7ES	-	0,8
Sigma V6	6G72 DOHC 24V	3.0	91- 93	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Sigma V6	6G72 SOHC	3.0	91- 93	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Sigma 3000	6G72 MPI V6	3.0	94-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Sigma 3000	6G72 MPI V6-24V	3.0	94-	PFR6J-11	-	1,1
Space Gear	4G63 MPI	2.0	04.95-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Space Gear	4G64 MPI	2.4	04.95-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Space Gear	4G69	2.0	97-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Space Runner	4G93	1.8	97-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Space Runner 1800	4G93	1.8	94-	BK6E	-	0,8
Space Runner 1800	4G93	1.8	09.91- 92	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Space Runner 1800	4G93 MPI	1.8	94-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Space Wagon	4G63	2.0	97-	BKR5E-11	-	1,1
Space Wagon			86- 88	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Space Wagon			(85)	BPR7ES	19	0,8
Space Wagon 1800	4G37	1.8	89-	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Space Wagon 1800	4G93	1.8	94-	BK6E	-	0,8
Space Wagon 1800	4G93	1.8	09.91- 93	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Space Wagon 1800	4G93 MPI	1.8	94-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Space Wagon 2009	4G63 Cat.	2.0	89-	BPR7ES-11	-	1,1
Space Wagon 2009	4G63 MPI Cat.	2.0	93-	BKR6E-11	14	1,1
Space Wagon 2009 4WD		2.0	89-	BPR7ES	19	0,8
Starion 2009		2.0		BPR7ES	19	0,8
Starion 2600 Turbo	G54B Cat.	2.6	89-	BPR6ES-11	13	1,1
Starion Turbo		2.0		BR7ES	-	0,8
Tredia		1.6	-84/86-	BPR5ES	6	0,8
Tredia		1.6	(85)	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Tredia Turbo		1.6	- 84	BPR6ES	2	0,8
Tredia Turbo		1.8	85-	BR7ES	-	0,8

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Cable Plug Information

Review: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/147493-answer-spark-plug-wires-ignition-wires.html

This is to help all those looking to upgrade their ignition wires and are not sure what brand they would like to buy.

The following is the resistance measured in ohms/ft by each major ignition wire distributer.

(low = good, high = bad)

MSD Ignition 8.5mm Super Conductor (40-50 ohms/ft)
Accel Thundersport (150 ohms/ft)
Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro (350 ohm/ft)
Aurora ignition wire set (400 ohms/ft)
Vitek Performance Cables (their web site does not mention resistance, but John Monnin measured them at about 800 ohms/ft; the label under Vitek's braiding says "Magstar Gold 8mm High Performance S-4 Stainless Steel Mag Wire" - thanks John!; Magstar wires are manufactured by Wiretec)
Wiretec Magstar Gold (800 ohms/ft as measured by John Monnin)
NGK Resistor Spark Plug Wire Set (2600 ohms/ft)
Mitsubishi factory wire sets (3000++ ohms/ft)
Car Quest brand wire sets (3000++ ohms/ft - Thanks to Bret for measuring these wires.)
Magnecor KV85 (6000++ ohms/ft)

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VR4 vs Evo Layout

VR4 and Evo has different layouts, different intake manifolds. The Coil plugs of the VR4 are longer as the coils sits down below compared to the evo.

Credits of pictures to VTEC_THIS from dsmtuners.

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4G63 Spark Plugs Info

The Spark Plug FAQ: or "What spark plugs should I use in my DSM?"

Every few weeks, sometimes even every few days, there comes a thread where a new owner of a DSM asks what the best spark plugs are for his or her car. More rare, but still seen every once in a while is the question posed where the owner is having problems with the car stumbling, hesitating, losing power, and otherwise not running quite right. In some cases, it is due to not running the correct spark plug or plug type. In this FAQ, I'll try to depict a few different types of spark plug and the pro's and con's of each. There's a fairly definite answer to the question you may have: "What spark plug should I use in my DSM," but we'll get to that later.

Source : http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/233421-spark-plug-faq.html

First, a few pictures of some various spark plugs you may be currently using, have used in the past, or have considered using. Note: The following applies mostly to turbo DSM's and may not reflect usage in a non-turbo application.

#1. The NGK BPR6ES. This is what the majority of DSM'ers who don't have too many mods or are running fairly low boost will tend to use.

#2. This is the NGK BPR6EKN. This is what you'll most likely be offered if you walk into an auto parts store or dealership and ask for plugs for your turbo DSM, because this is the plug called for in the Owner's Manual and the shop manual. It was the standard factory plug for turbo DSMs. Notice the dual electrode. It's fairly pointless, since the spark will only jump to one of them, but these are an option for our cars, although not the best option. Unless part of your shop's income is generated by selling spark plugs, of course.

#3. This is a Bosch Super plug for the DSM 4g63t. It's a copper plug, fairly similar to the NGK, more or less. You may be offered this plug when you go to an auto parts store.

#4. This is a Bosch Platinum plug. This is another option you may be given when you go to your local auto parts store. It has been the experience of nearly ever DSM'er that you should avoid platinum plugs at all costs in turbocharged applications. The salesperson will most likely tell you that platinum plugs last a long time, or maybe they're on sale. It doesn't matter. They simply are not the best, nor worth the cost, for our cars.

A note about the pic: Do you notice anything missing that was visible in the previous pictures? That's right. The center electrode is amazingly small, nearly invisible. Below are two internal diagrams of the Bosch plugs (copper and platinum) from the exterior of their respective boxes.

#5. Here is a Bosch Platinum +4. It has four electrodes and a small platinum center electrode.

I don't have any pictures of any iridium plugs because they're special order where I work, and we didn't have any in stock. This isn't suprising because of their cost. For the price of a single iridium plug, you could have an entire set of standard copper plugs with money left over for a gapping tool and a frosty beverage.

One of the most frequently asked questions that crops up often here on DSMtuners is: "What kind of spark plug should I use in my (turbo) DSM?"
Use NGKs. They are the best for our cars. For some unknown reason, our cars just 'prefer' them.

HEAT RANGES:

An important feature of spark plugs that often goes unnoticed, or is often misunderstood, is what is known as the "heat range" of a spark plug. The spark plug must dissipate heat. Different heat ranges of spark plugs dissipate heat at different rates, which allows people to use different plugs for different applications. The plugs do not create heat, but instead remove it. The heat is transferred through the metal shell of the plug, to the head, where it is removed by the oil and water passages in the head. The way it does so is best shown by this diagram from NGK's website:

Different companies sometimes use different methods for determining the heat ranges of their plugs. NGK, for example, uses lower numbers for hotter plugs and higher numbers for colder plugs; i.e. BPR6ES plugs are hotter than BPR7ES plugs. Using too cold of a plug in your car will lead to fouling, but using too hot of a plug may lead to a hot-spot developing on the plug surface, which may result in pre-ignition/detonation. The ideal situation is to use the coldest plug possible without fouling.

Here's a comparison of three spark plugs made by NGK. At first glance, you may not notice a difference. Upon closer inspection, you may find that the shape and thickness of the white insulator around the center electrode thickens as the plug's heat range goes colder. In addition, the insulator is in contact with more of the outer shell where the threads of the plug are as the plug's range goes colder. On the left is a BPR5ES, in the middle is a BPR7ES, and on the right is a BPR9ES.

The more contact the insulator has with the outer shell, the more heat can be transferred out of the plug and into the head. Heat doesn't travel through air as well, so in a plug with less contact with the outer shell, the core of the plug stays hotter.

Another frequently asked question seen here (now that you know you need NGKs) is: "What heat range of NGK do I need for my (turbo) DSM?"
There are no set rules, but there are guidelines:
-For stock to near-stock cars, BPR6ES.
-For mildly modified to - heavily modified or high-boost, use BPR7ES.
-For heavily modified, high boost applications, use BPR8ES.
If plug fouling occurs, go one step hotter and monitor performance and results.

Example:
Stock car, T25/14b, 12-15 psi, upgraded intake/exhaust: 6ES
16g, 20 psi, water/meth injection : 7ES-8ES
GT35R, nitrous, the works: 8ES-9ES-10ES


METALS:

Copper, Platinum, Iridium. (What's next, Adamantium?) What's the right one for you? As mentioned earlier, the vast majority of DSM'ers will swear by standard NGK copper plugs. Platinum is not as good a conductor as copper, but it's harder so it lasts longer. Iridium is also very hard, but it's also very rare, which makes it expensive. The consensus regarding iridium plugs is that while they work, they're not worth the price when standard $2/each copper plugs work more or less the same. Even though platinum plugs are closer in price to copper plugs, it's been my experience along with many other members, that running platinum plugs caused fouling, stumbling, hesitation, a loss of power, a decrease in gas mileage, and poor idle. Switching to standard NGK copper plugs solved the problems immediately.

Here's the answer to one of those common questions: "My car stumbles/hesitates/has no power/idles oddly/has lost gas mileage/does not perform well..."
If you are running platinum spark plugs and notice that your car isn't running right.... take them out and put in NGK BPR6ES spark plugs and see if your situation improves.

GAP:

Another common question is in regards to the proper gap of a spark plug. This refers to the space between the center electrode and the side electrode. The average auto-parts store computer will usually suggest a gap for each spark plug that they have in their computers. However, in most cases, the best gap to use is the one specified by the manufacturer of your car. In the case of turbo DSM's, many people choose to gap their plugs to .028". DSM'ers have had good experiences with slightly larger gaps (.030-.032") as well as with smaller gaps (.026"). The computer where I work suggests a gap of .032" for the spark plugs for our cars.

Spark plugs do not come from the factory pre-gapped. You may open a spark plug up and find that it meets your gap needs, but this does not mean that the next identical spark plug will have the exact same gap. To be sure, manually gap each spark plug you install. There are several tools to help you measure a spark plug's gap. Here are three of the most common: a gapping disc ($.99), a blade measurer ($3) and a wire-gapper ($3). What you use is your preference. Many people say that the ramp-style gappers are not as accurate. They'll work in a pinch, but the wire and blade gapping tools are preferred.

Here's an answer to another commonly asked question: "What should I gap my spark plugs to?"
Gap your plugs to .028"

My good friend Anthony (DSMunknown) has brought to my attention that there has been some discussion in past years regarding the gap of spark plugs opening up over time, possibly due to long projected tip or high exhaust gas temperatures. If you race or dyno your car regularly, checking your spark plug gaps on a regular basis (once ever 5 dyno pulls or once every 3-5 1/4 mile runs, or so) and monitoring whether they are opening up or not. If they are, you'll need to replace or re-gap more often than drivers who daily-drive their cars. More info on this will be forthcoming as research is conducted and reported.

To sum up: In general the BEST spark plug for our cars is the NGK BPR6ES gapped to .028", varying heat range depending on modifications.

For more information:
NGK Spark Plug Information
Decoding NGK Spark Plug part numbers.
Reading spark plugs
An in-depth look at spark plugs.
A VERY in-depth look at plug, brought to you by our cousins, the Stealth/3kGT.
A conglomeration of threads discussing different experiences with spark plugs.

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Ferrea Performance Valves by Onedirt

We often do not change our valves keeping in our minds that our OEM valves is all we need. To extract the maximum horsepower of the head, valves places an important role. Most common valves comes from Ferrea and Supertech. Below is an article by Andrew Wolf from Onedirt.com

Source : http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/engine/guide-to-performance-valves-with-ferrea-racing-components/

High performance engines deserve a set of high performance valves, and because we’re in the business of squeezing the most performance possible out of any engine combination, valves are very much an important aspect to focus upon. And why not? There’s plenty of horsepower to be made from a good set of valves and a proper valve job. Everything from the material selection, the valve and stem sizes, and the back cuts play a significant role in mating valves to your engine that not only meet the needs of your specific application, but make the most of it with great flow that leads to increased horsepower and efficiency.

In this guide to performance valves, we’ll take a look at variables like valve and stem sizing, materials, backcuts, and the technology that exists behind racing valves with one of the historic names in the industry, Ferrea Racing Components. Founded in the late 1960′s in Argentina by Dan Urrutia and Horacio Ferrea, the valvetrain manufacturer has remained at the forefront of cutting edge valve technology for more than 40 years. Today, the business remains with the Ferrea and Urrutia families, and we sat down with Director of Marketing and the third generation figure behind the renowned business, Zeke Urrutia, to gain some insight on valve technology and proper valve selection from the perspective of an industry leader.

Selecting The Proper Valve Material

When discussing the material for your valve selection, it generally comes down to a choice between several variations of stainless steel, which are most common in performance street and light duty racing applications for their durability and price, various forms of alloys, and the high-end, lightweight, titanium valves that are typically found in racing engines that receive regular maintenance.

“One of the primary decisions to take into account when selecting a valve is to determine the material for the specific application, be it stainless steel – which there are basically seven to eight different stainless materials – and then the other option, which would be titanium,” said Urrutia. “In some applications, you can get involved in using titanium, but in others, such as streets cars that are driven regularly, gas-driven cars, and anything that has very high temperatures, then steel is preferred.”

A pair of Ferrea's Small Block Chevrolet stainless steel valves. Ferrea manufactures valves from several materials and blends for different purposes and budgets, including titanium, stainless steel, and various types of alloys.

Titanium – When Nothing Less Will Do

Titanium valves are the material of choice in professional drag racing, oval track, road racing, and other venues where winning often outweighs the cost, due to their light weight and strength along with the allowance for more radical cam profiles and added power potential. With a price tag that is often two to three times that of the highest-quality stainless steel valves on the market, they aren’t for the faint of heart, nor the weekend warrior trying to race on the cheap.

“With titanium, there is only a certain market that we and our competitors dabble with, and that’s the high end,” says Urrutia. “There is titanium that we manufacture for the OEM’s though; primarily for the ‘Big Three.’ Titanium really involves a whole different process for these OEM-built engines. An example would be the popular GM LS line of engines, and specifically the Corvette LS7, which usually falls into a certain criteria where those are very low mileage cars. The cycle life of titanium valves is very marginal – you don’t get much time out of them. And if you do, you’re getting involved with some pretty exotic coatings and maybe put another 20-30 percent more life on them, but it’s marginal for what it’s worth.”

As such, the use of titanium is mostly limited to serious, cost-is-no-option racing teams that typically change out the valvetrain components on a regular basis. Urrutia explains that NHRA Pro Stock teams, for example, will often swap out the valves at least every other race and replace them and other drag racing applications might see between three and fives races before the valves are swapped out. While the valves still have a limited amount of life in them after that short time of use, for these teams it’s more of a security thing to keep their engines alive and in contention. Truth be told, not even the manufacturers can give an approximate timetable of just how long a titanium valve will last and when to replace them.

This view shows the difference in the faces of a set of LS1 valves (at left) and Small Block Chevrolet valves.

Stainless Steel Valves

When looking at the category of stainless steel valves, the primary advantage is the ability to not only withstand higher levels of heat and the strain that accompanies that heat, but also includes the tensile strength that the valve can handle as well. The materials or blends that are included in stainless, such as alloys comprised of nickel, chromium, and other materials will allow for a specific temperature on the valves, as well as a certain tensile strength. Both of these factors favor applications like large cubic inch naturally aspirated engines, or with the use of power adders including superchargers, turbochargers, and nitrous oxide. As such, the selection of the blends of the stainless material becomes important to getting the most from your engine.

“Stainless steel is a material as an identity for longevity. It holds itself very well, has properties that last very, very long, and you can get into very high temperature environments; especially on the exhaust side,” says Urrutia. “Stainless has become somewhat of an identity for guys that are building an engine, running it maybe at weekly circle track or drag race events, and depending on the build, can get very long durations out of them.”

Ferrea offers three different primary product lines of stainless steel and alloy valves: the Competition Plus Series, the 6000 Series, and the 5000 Series. Urrutia points out that within the Competition Plus line, there are four to five different stainless materials to choose from. “It mainly entails the exhaust valve side, because what really perturbs any valve is the heat and spring pressure. Those are really the two main factors that you have a big area of weakness on an exhaust valve. Bang for the buck, it’s an area where most engine builders venture first, and then see if there’s a possibility for titanium if their pockets are that deep.”

The 5000 Series is more performance oriented toward street rods, muscle cars, and similar applications that are often cruised on the weekends or driven for extended periods of time. The 6000 Series represents the middle ground between the other two lines, which is aimed at the cost-conscious bracket racer or weekly oval and dirt track racer with engines that often utilize high spring pressure, big roller camshafts, and large compression ratios that lack the use of power adders. Both of these lines are available only in stainless steel, and once you evolve to the Competition Plus series, there are four to five variations of stainless steel that utilize exotic alloys.

Ferrea utilizes three to four differing blends of stainless steel that make up a particular valve. The differences between the differing blends is primarily the heat range to which they can withstand.

The first among those is what’s known as an EV8, which Urrutia describes as being incredibly strong with great memory and because of it’s wide use in all forms of manufacturing, is a common blend in foundries around the world and quite popular for valves – especially on the intake side. EV8 is comprised of chromium and nickel and Ferrea adds tungsten to the mix to make it suitable as an exhaust valve, as well. Also on the intake side is IN751 – an inconel -

From there you get into some more exotic materials and alloys involving exhaust valves. These include VB54, a high-heat stainless steel blend with a high nickel base that’s used exclusively for exhaust valves for combinations composed of forced induction and nitrous oxide. Also on the exhaust side is Nickelvac N80 that sports nickel and tungsten for handling even higher temperatures – upwards of 1,850 degrees fahrenheit. And finally, you have what Urrutia calls the ultimate of their stainless steel exhaust valve blends; Nickelvac 800. These are used in large diesel engines, Top Fuel Dragsters and Funny Cars, and turbocharged road racing vehicles where the most extreme of valvetrain environments and heat exist.

The bowl-shaped heads on a set of Ford intake and exhaust stainless steel valves.

Inconel and Sodium-Filled Valves

A blend that Ferrea uses on both the intake and exhaust side is IN751, which is an inconel material. Used in an engine that sees high heat on the intake side, this material will hold its memory and integrity quite well and is rather flexible. The term “memory” refers to the valve’s ability to shift and move in different positions under extreme loads without encountering fatigue issues.

“Inconel in this day and age is used a lo in our industry; almost as much as titanium. Inconel was brought on by the avionics industry and has made it’s way to the racing, as may things do. Inconel is categorized under our Super Alloys, but we actually create our own blends to that make it handle high temperatures that much better. so instead of handling in the neighborhood of 1,800 degrees, we’re looking at about 2,400 degrees.

Ferrea also manufactures sodium-filled valves, albeit on their OEM side where these valves are primarily limited to. Sodium bases used in these valves are only tested to around 1,600 degrees, which most racing and high performance engines exceed. The liquid sodium travels up and down the stem of the valve, and at the boiling point, the liquid turns to gas. You then essentially have a valve with a hollow neck and excessively high temperatures, the chance of failure is very high.

However, the benefit of the sodium-filled valve comes in the form of added longevity due to the cooling properties of the sodium, and in street cars where temperatures are kept in check and hundreds of thousands of miles are expected, these are key.

The valve starts as a solid rod, heated on one end and then compressed to form the valve's face.

Hollow Stem Valves

“Something that we’ve enhanced in the last four to five years is the hollow-stem stainless valve, which we’ve been continuing to move in the direction of lighter and lighter valvetrain mass as a whole,” explains Urrutia.

The components related to the valve such as retainers, lifters, the camshaft, and the valvetrain as a whole as a mass adapt to the lighter valve – such as titanium or the lighter hollow stem stainless – much better harmonically. And thus component-wise, from a harmonics standpoint, the result is an engine that is far more stable. In that same regard, the power band becomes much smoother.

Says Urrutia “if you look at the durations of the power bands, whether it’s on a dyno or a spintron, the windows are shortened up a lot closer because you’re getting to that point that much faster with the lighter valves. If you take just the valve spring for example combined with a titanium or light stainless valve, the spring would see a lot more life because the mass driving the spring is the valve and it’s that much lighter. Thus, the spring doesn’t have to work itself as hard.”

Ferrea's Competition Plus Series Valves are a hollow stem design and have a reputation as the industry's most reliable extreme duty valve.

Ferrea equates their hollow stem valves at about 22% lighter than a standard stainless steel valve, and while not as light and therefore not as easy on the correlating valvetrain components as the expensive titanium, the advantages are certainly present. At present, Ferrea produces only stainless steel valves in the hollow stem variety, but Urrutia indicates that he and his team are working to develop them in titanium, as well.

Lock Styles

An element of a valve design that is commonly overlooked and rarely discussed are locks the varying styles of locks. The locks hold the retainer in place and come in various designs including standard, radius, square, and double locking mechanisms. The locks are two-piece and while a very small component itself, represents a rather important role in the overall picture of a valvetrain as it holds the valve in place. The valve designs are specifically designed based on the style of lock being used.

“We got into radius grooves nine to ten years ago and what amazes us is that they haven’t become all that popular, but they are much, much better than a square groove. Anything that is round and has round edges is always stronger on a material base, and thus you can prolong the life of the part longer than one that is square,” explains Urrutia.

Above are the varying styles of locks found on (from L to R) Ford, Big Block Chevrolet, hollow stem LS1 Small Block Chevrolet, and Small Block Chevrolet valves.

Ferrea finds there to be about 30% more life in a radius lock compared alongside a square lock.

“Our square lock has been enhanced the last several years to where if you look at it, it’s not a true square lock. It has small radius corner edges on the top and bottom.

So What Are The Differences?

The information above can be best summed up by saying that the specific use of the various materials that valves are manufactured from is a game of tradeoffs. For the high-end racing applications where the ultimate in performance is key and maintenance is consistently performed, titanium valves are preferable. These come at a twofold cost, however. Due to their naturally shorter lifespan, you’re looking at not only the high one-time cost of a set, but the repeated cost of replacing them on a regular basis as needed. For those that can get away with the slightly lesser performing steel and alloy valves, the costs are significantly reduces and longevity is considerably longer; perhaps anywhere from one to three seasons of continual use.

“Selecting materials really comes down to the three main categories. The first is the application, the second being the fuel that you intend to use in the engine, and three is the duration of that application, or the longevity that the valvetrain is expected or desired to live,” explains Urrutia.

Properly Sizing The Valves And Stems

Ferrea valves (from L to R) Ford, Big Block Chevrolet, hollow stem LS1 Small Block Chevrolet, and Small Block Chevrolet valves feature varying stem lengths depending upon cylinder head make and design.

There are two main factors that need to be kept in mind when discussing sizing of both the intake and exhaust valves for a specific engine. Cylinder head manufacturers typically design an industry standard size for valves, which entails the OEM engines with a standard size for small blocks, big blocks, and smaller sport compact engines. All of that obviously involves it being just that: a standard. On the second point, according to Urrutia, “You open yourself up to a pretty sizable window, where the sizes can vary drastically for each typical cylinder head, depending on how far and between someone is willing to go with the port work on the head and flow enhancements.”

Urrutia continued, “A standard intake valve for a small block Chevrolet is 2.020-inches and the exhaust is 1.600. But, you can get in there and open up that area on the intake – for example to 2.050, 2.080. 2.100, 2.125 and even as large as 2.200. You open yourself up to where you can expand that much more in sizing depending upon how much you’re going to modify that head and whether it’s being placed on a mild race engine, full out race engine, or something completely hot rod performance-oriented.”

Valve Stems – Size Does Matter

Likewise, valve stem sizes are dictated by what is being looked at in todays world as a standard of 11/32-inch. Stem sizes, however, are becoming much smaller today due to the materials and processed used in their design, allowing manufacturers to not only produce valves with stems that are not only smaller, but lighter in that same regard.

“I would say that the two main sizes that have become very, very popular in this day and age would be 11/32 being one, and 5/16 being another, explained Urrutia. “Those are really two of the pivot points that still drive our market. And then you obviously get into some smaller ones, found in some foreign engines. Some of the LS engines have also gone to 8mm, which is just a tad bit larger in size than a 5/16, so it’s relatively close in the range that they’ve really looked at and determined for use in OEM engines. If you look back ten to fifteen years ago, everything was pretty much still 11/32 somewhat, and 3/8 was still very popular back then. Today, 3/8 is starting to become a little less popular and common.”

Ferrea’s 6000 Series Competition Valves are designed for excellent reliability in engines with high spring pressures and roller cams.

The stem of the valve has to be in proportion to the head size of the valve, meaning that if the stem is a specific size, the head can only be designed to a certain size as well. For example, a valve with an 11/32 and a 2.800 or larger head diameter would incur issues of what is known as deflection, in which abnormal areas of the valve experience more flex than usual with smaller head diameters relative to the proportionate size of the stem. Essentially, the size of both coincides with one another. And it’s these two elements of the design of a valve that play a large role in the lasting survival or failure of the valve over a period of time.

Some manufacturers on the market offer valves that are longer than stock, and others offer valves with undercut stems that leads to increased flow. One point important to note is that nearly all factory replacement and aftermarket valves have a .001-inch taper down the length of the valve – narrower at the base of the head – to accommodate expansion created by the heat that that would otherwise cause galling, or wear due to friction between the metals.

Machining the backside of the valve, known as back cutting, is one element that can most improve the overall flow of air and therefore create added horsepower.

Valve Backcutting

The one aspect of a valve that plays the biggest role in improved flow and horsepower is the backside of the valve, which can be modified – to an extent, obviously – through a process known as backcutting. This extra machining of the valve correspondent to the angles around the valve seat makes for a smoother transition and increased airflow. Many of the high performance and high-end racing valves on the market already incorporate back cuts into their design, and other valves, such as OEM replacements, can benefit from the process. In doing so, you prevent flow separation from the valve as air flows over them. Flow separation causes turbulence and therefore less-than-stellar flow.

Back cuts are very relative to port design,” explained Urrutia. “Both the port design and the back cut coincide with one another. Multiple angles on the port, particularly on the seat, typically enhance and improve back cuts on valves. In this industry, some do a three-angle, and some do as much as a five-angle valve job on the initial seat on the port. That would typically determine at that point what angle to adjust on the valve itself for a back cut. Back cuts can be as minimum as half a degree or can be as large as one-degree difference.” This can be very critical when you get into multiple seat angles that are done on the cylinder head port, and falls into mostly the higher-end racing engines that are looked upon in very fine detail and gaining as little as one or two horsepower can be a monumental achievement.

A view of the backside of a set of Big Block Chevrolet intake and exhaust valves from Ferrea.

Additional Considerations For Optimal Valve Performance

Finding performance in valves typically comes from a couple of different factors. The first, as with virtually any internal component, is weight. For example, hollow stem valves, which have been on the market for several years now, have proven to offer a great deal of increased performance due to their lighter weight. The second factor comes in the form of multiple enhancements, such as undercut stems and altered profiles that correspond to the particular port design of the cylinder head. In addition to automotive valves and valvetrain components, Ferrea produces or has played a role in the design of poppet valves for natural gas engines, tank valves, the aviation industry, oil pump engines, unmanned vehicle for the miliatry, and virtually any other type of internal combustion engine that uses valves.

Custom Valve Ordering

In addition to their wide and varying selection of valves, Ferrea can produce a custom set of valves for your application and per your specifications, so long as the desired valve conforms to the parameters of the blanks valves off the shelf. “We can custom make just about any valve, on any stem size relative to what we have available,” says Urrutia. “Today, we can make valves with 4mm stems up to 3/8-inch, and we can usually get them done within a two week span. We also do short production runs on any valve that we have readily available as a blank form.”

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